Water Restrictions as of May 1st
NONESSENTIAL OUTDOOR WATER USE ALLOWED between 5 PM and 9 AM
The Water Division staff continues to monitor watershed conditions and State Drought Statuses as we proceed thru the Summer months. We will communicate with the public on any changes.
*Essential users are defined by MassDEP as uses required: a) for health or safety reasons; b) by regulation; c) for the production of food or fiber; d) for the maintenance of livestock; or e) to meet the core functions of a business. Nonessential uses are those other than essential uses.
Billerica Water Works was established by an act of the Massachusetts Legislature in 1897. Construction of the original works began in 1898 and continued for several years. The water works was first activated in January of 1899. Water was at that time drawn from wells located in the area of the present Water Treatment Plant, where the original pumping station building remains.
The first Water Treatment Plant (WTP) was built in 1955. As originally built it had a capacity of 3.5 million gallons per day (MGD) and was intended to be expanded to 7 MGD at a later time. In 1967 the plant was expanded to its intended maximum capacity. As growth in town continued the plant’s capacity was again increased in 1976, this time to 14 MGD.
On May 18, 2006, the old Water Treatment Plant on Boston Road was taken off line and the new Water Treatment Plant, located off Treble Cove Road, continued servicing the town. The new Water Treatment Plant uses the same processes and has the same capacity as the old plant. The old plant was eventually demolished.
Over the years some of the processes have changed, such as:
- In the 1979 the powdered activated carbon applied in the pretreatment was replaced by changing the filter media from anthracite coal to granular activated carbon. This lowered cost and reduced sludge volume.
- In the 1987 sodium hydroxide was replaced with potassium hydroxide and in January 2009 a switch was made back to sodium hydroxide.
- In December of 1992 fluoridation of the water supply began.
- In May of 1997 an ozone generating and feed system was installed. This was done to remove the manganese which caused brown water. This treatment also reduces taste and odors and very effectively inactivates virus and cysts.
- In September of 1999 ammonia was added to change the secondary disinfectant to from free chlorine to chloramines. This was done to lower the trihalomethane levels. This adjustment has been very successful.
Additional Information
Residents are often confused about what number to call for various water-related problems or questions. Please call Water Billing at (978) 671-0954 for the following issues: second meter inspections, final reads, and low pressure problems. For more information on water billing, please visit the Water and Sewer Rates.
For issues such as water main breaks, brown water, or hydrant problems, call the Water Treatment Plant at (978) 671-0957.
Flushing is the processing of opening certain hydrants to flush out the sediment in the water mains. As the sediment is carried out through the hydrants, the water will become discolored. The removal of this sediment now will lessen the chance that it will be stirred up and discolor the water this summer during the high flows. The map below shows the current progress the Town has made in this years flushing efforts. We appreciate the public’s patience while the program is under way.
- All flushing will be done between 3 PM and 9 PM on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays.
- All Flushing Areas will be identified by the Code Red System each week of the program.
- Unforeseen circumstances may cause the program to be extended.
- When a particular section is being flushed, it may cause some discolored water in adjacent sections.

Protecting Water Safety
The function of this program is to see that connections between the drinking water system and any other liquid or gas do not pose a threat to the safety of the drinking water. There are two conditions under which cross connections are a problem:
- The first is when the pressure in the main drops and contaminates are siphoned back into the mains. This can happen when there is a main break or a large fire demand in the area.
- The second is when the pressure in a building’s plumbing system exceeds the pressure in the main. This can be caused by pressure-type boilers or any process connected to the plumbing that heats liquids or gases.
Reduced Pressure Zone Valve
Billerica Water Works has regulations requiring that all commercial buildings have a reduced pressure zone (RPZ) valve after the water meter. While our efforts are directed at commercial properties, homeowners should be aware that they may have cross connections in their plumbing. The most common cross connections are probably a garden hose with a sprayer attached or a hose placed in a swimming pool.
Program Operations
The Head Tester is responsible for surveying all commercial buildings for cross connections. When these are found and cannot be physically separated, a special check valve must be installed. Normally an RPZ valve will be used. The exceptions are the valves on the fire lines, which are double checks. The RPZ valves are tested twice a year and the double checks once a year.
The Distribution Works consists primarily of the piping that carries the water to the customers. This piping ranges in size from 2 inches to 24 inches in diameter. The original mains, most of which are still in use, are made of pit-cast iron. Shortly after the original construction, galvanized iron piping came into use, usually only for 1½-inch to 2-inch lines. Some of these old lines are still in service. In the mid 1950s, cement asbestos was used for water mains. The current material used is ductile iron.
Fire Hydrants
There are over 2,000 fire hydrants connected to our system and of these, over 1,800 are public hydrants under the care of our staff. The hydrant inventory by age is given below:
Age | Percentile |
---|---|
No date, includes unknown date | 4% |
1956-1959 | .4% |
1960-1969 | 5.3% |
1970-1979 | 11.5% |
1980-1989 | 17.9% |
1990-1999 | 20.3% |
2000-2009 | 14.2% |
2010-2019 | 26.4% |
Hydrant manufacturers did not begin marking the year on the hydrant barrels until the mid 1950s.
Maintenance & Flushing of Hydrants
The flushing of the hydrants is usually done once a year. Although this appears to be a hydrant-based activity, the purpose is to flush sedimentation from the water mains. This is normally done by opening all the hydrants at the ends of the mains and usually takes 2 to 3 weeks.
Our staff performs the maintenance and replacement of public hydrants. All of our hydrants have automatic drains, which drain the barrel after use to prevent freezing and the accumulation of stagnant water. Occasionally these do not work and require repair. Because we use a river source, there are great seasonal fluctuations in the water temperature. This occasionally causes hydrants to leak. The majority of hydrant replacements are done by our staff. The exceptions are those cases where hydrants are damaged by vehicle collisions. These damaged hydrants are replaced by a contractor at the expense of the driver’s insurance company. Most of our hydrants have stainless-steel identification tags, which give the hydrant’s inventory number. Our staff also paints the public hydrants as weather permits. Painting is an ongoing operation.
Service Lines
Service lines are the connections from the main to the customer’s water meter or fire system. The older lines are galvanized iron tubes. Since the 1940s, copper has been used for the smaller house lines. Fire lines are normally of the same materials being used for water mains.
Maintenance of Service Lines
Our staff repairs or replaces the portion of the service lines between the main and the property line as needed. These are similar to water main repairs. Many of these are not emergencies but are scheduled. When an old galvanized-iron service line corrodes, the inside opening becomes smaller which restricts the flow. Replacing these lines restores capacity. We usually will do this after the homeowner has changed the service line on his or her property to type-K copper.
As other utilities mark out the location of their buried lines when we are digging, we must locate our lines for them. We are not a member of the Dig Safe System, and must be contacted separately by anyone planning to excavate. We also mark out our lines at the planning stage of projects such as sewer-collection-system extensions.
Standpipes
The two tanks in the center of the plant are called standpipes. They are connected to the Treatment Plant by 16 inch and 24 inch diameter force mains. These force mains also diffuse water to the distribution works. The function of the standpipes is to even out the production demand on the treatment plant, maintain pressure, and to have on hand a ready supply of water for emergencies. Each standpipe has only one connection to the distribution system; they float on the system.
When the treatment plant is producing more water than is being consumed the water level in the standpipes rises. When there is more demand than production the water level in the standpipes falls. The water level in the standpipes is normally kept within 15 feet of the overflow. Water pressure at any particular point in town is controlled by the distance that particular point is below the water level in the standpipes.
Main Breaks
Our system averages about 40 main breaks per year. Most of these occur in the winter. Sometimes the pipe is found to have a rock under the pipe or passes through an old sewer trench that has settled. The majority of breaks are unexplained. When a main fails we must isolate (shut-off) the area and call Dig Safe to locate underground utilities.
Beam & Lengthwise Breaks
There are two basic types of main breaks. The first is beam breakage, which results in the pipe splitting around its circumference. We repair this with a wrap-around clamp. The second type of break is lengthwise. This is usually more difficult to repair and can require a larger excavation. A lengthwise break requires that a section of pipe be cut out and replaced. These cracks can run 9 to 10 feet along the pipe. After the break has been repaired and the excavation has been largely filled in, the water will slowly be turned on to fill the main. Then the area mains will be flushed through the hydrants to rid the main of air and sediment.
General Requirements (All Meters)
- All service lines must be metered before water will be turned on by the Water Division. The only exception will be dedicated lines servicing fire sprinkler systems.
- Solder connections are not allowed until after the primary meter effluent tail fitting.
- Backflow devices and pressure regulating equipment will not be allowed before the meter effluent valve.
- All meters must be compatible with the town’s existing metering system.
- All meters must read in cubic feet.
- All remote readers will be installed near a driveway, or if not feasible, near a walkway. In cases of multiple touchpads, all touchpads will be grouped together on the outside of the building.
- All meters will be installed horizontally.
- The meter will be at least 1 foot off the floor but not more than 4 feet. Clearance to the wall will be no less than 4 inches.
- There must be a valve before and after the meter; ball valves may be used.
- All meters must be physically accessible within the building.
- Pit installations and garage installations will not be allowed.
- The Water Division will determined the size meter to be used.
View a printable version of the Water Meter Installation Requirements. For meter installation help, view the Meter Installation Diagram.Sealing of Meters
When installation of the meter(s) has been completed, contact the following to have the meter sealed and recorded:
- Primary Meter only contact Water Billing Office 978-671-0954
- Primary and Secondary Meters contact Water Billing Office 978-671-0954
- Secondary Meter only contact Water Billing Office 978-671-0954
Primary Meters
Primary Meters must have an electrical bypass with copper wiring (minimum 6 gauge). Primary Meters must be located as close as practical to the point where the service line enters the building.
Secondary Meters
The sewer use charge is based on water consumption as measured by the primary meter. In order to obtain an abatement for non-sewered use of water (lawn sprinklers, etc.), the customer is required to meter at his/her own expense that fraction of water use which is not discharged into the sewer system. All such secondary meters will be installed and maintained at the customer’s expense.
Installation
You must make your own arrangements with a licensed plumber for the installation of a suitable meter. Both your primary and new secondary meter must be up to code and equipped with a remote reading device. The water passing through the secondary meter must have previously passed through the primary meter. The secondary meter may not be soldered to its fittings. Walls or the like must not obscure the plumbing from the secondary meter to the unsewered use.
The Meter Serviceman must inspect all secondary meter installations. Upon completion of the installation, the owner must contact the Meter Serviceman at 978-671-0954 for an inspection. There will be only one secondary meter allowed per each primary meter. The current meter system uses a Sensus SRII meter with the touchpad read system.
Tapping Permits
The following information is required for a Permit for Water Service (Tapping Permit):
- Property owner’s name, address, and telephone number
- Installer’s name, address, and telephone number
- Address of the property (including building number) which will be supplied with water
- Assessor’s plate (map) and parcel number (this can be found on your tax bill)
- Size of the line you plan to install
Tapping Fees
Tapping fees must be received with the Tapping Permit at the Water Division Office located at 270 Treble Cove Road. Fees must be paid by check made out to the Town of Billerica.
Tap Size | Fee |
---|---|
3/4 inch – 1 inch | $175 |
2 inch | $300 |
4 inch | $400 |
6 inch | $600 |
8 inch | $800 |
10 inch | $1,000 |
12 inch | $1,200 |
16 inch | $1,600 |
Regulations
Only 3/4 inch or 1 inch service lines are permitted for use with residential units. Water meters on these lines are typically one size smaller than the size of the service line.
- The use of plastic lines is prohibited.
- Soldering before the meter is prohibited.
- If a structure is demolished but the existing service line is to be reused, a tapping permit must be completed.
Please note the following allowable material and size for water service pipes:
Ductile Iron: 4 inch, 6 inch, 8 inch, 10 inch, 12 inch, 16 inch
Copper: 3/4 inch, 1 inch, 1.5 inch, 2 inch
Butterfly Garden
Here you can learn how to create a beautiful butterfly garden using drought tolerant plants (drought tolerant does not mean just cacti). Many plants zoned for New England and drought tolerant are colorful, lush, and fragrant. Several even attract butterflies to your garden! See the list below for plants that will attract butterflies and even hummingbirds to your garden.
Butterfly Attracting Plants & Bushes
- Sunflower – An easy flower that blooms annually. Plant where sunlight is abundant.
- Buddleia – The rich blossoms of this extraordinary cultivar are attractive to butterflies. Watch them flock all over the large spikes!
- Carpet of Snow – Alyssum perfect for lining walkways or in window boxes.
- Coneflower – An exceptionally hardy perennial that is heat and drought tolerant.
- Coreopsis – Butterflies adore this versatile Tickseed cultivar, adaptable to most soil types.
- Delosperma (Ice-Plant) – Makes an excellent ground cover for dry locations.
- Four O’Clocks – Fragrant, 2 inch trumpet shaped blooms come out in late afternoon, grows best in full sun.
- Gomphrena – Distinctly unique and great for fresh and dried arrangements.
- Liatris – Excellent for cutting and for attracting butterflies, and it loves the sun!
- Phlox – Butterflies will flock to this fragrant flower all summer long.
- Sedum – A carefree plant, it is very long-lived. Plant where full sunlight can be obtained.
- Shasta Daisy – Hardy, long blooming if dead-headed, best in part-full sun.
Drought Resistant Plants
In this section you will find many drought resistant plants that will help in your greenscaping garden improvements. if you notice the letters “sp.” written after the genus name it means that in that genus there are many species available, different colors for example.
Annuals / Biennials
- African Daisy
- California Poppy – Eschscholzia californica
- Cleome – Cleome
- Cosmos – Cosmos sp.
- Creeping Zinnia
- Dahlberg Daisy
- Dusty Miller – Artemesia stellariana
- Four O’Clock
- Gazania – Gazania
- Gomphrena
- Love in a mist – Nigella damascena
- Madagascar periwinkles
- Marigold – Dimorpohtheca sp.
- Morning Glory – Ipomoea sp.
- Petunias
- Portulaca Celosia
- Spider Flower
- Strawflower – Helichrysum bracteatum
- Sweet William – Dianthus Barbatus
- Vinca
Ground Cover
- Bearberry – Arctostaphylos uva-ursi
- Candytuft Iberis – sempervirens
- Creeping Grape Holly – Mahonia repens
- Creeping Lily-turf – Liriope spicata
- Creeping Phlox – Phlox subulata
- Creeping Potentilla – Potentilla verna nana
- Creeping Veronica – Veronica repens
- Hay-scented – Fern Dennstaedtia punctilobula
- Kinnikinnick – Arctostaphylos uva ursi
- Lamb’s Ears – Stachys byzantina
- Purple Hardy Ice Plant – Delosperma cooperi
- Purple Pussy Toes – Antennaria parvifolia
- St. John’s Wort – Hypericum calycinum
- Silver Mound – Artemisia Artemisia schmidtiana
- Snow-in-Summer – Cerastium tomentosum
- Soap Wort – Saponaria ocymoides
- Stonecrop – Sedum
- Sweet Woodruff – Asperula oderata
- Thyme – Thymus sp.
- Violets – Viola sp.
- Wall Rock-cress – Arabis caucasica
Ornamental Grasses
- Buffalograss Buchloe – dactyloides
- Dwarf Fountain Grass – Pennisetum alopecuroides
- Golden Variegated – Hakone Hakonechloa macra
- Japanese Silver Grass
- Love Grass
- Sheep Fescue – Festuca ovina glauca
- Variegated Japanese Sedge – Carex morowii
- Zebra Grass
Perennials
- Aster – Aster (certain species)
- Babysbreath – Gypsophila paniculata
- Black eyed Susan/Coneflower – Rudbeckia sp
- Blue Flax – Linum lewisii
- Boltonia Snowbank – Boltonia asteroides
- Carpathian Harebell – Campanula carpatica
- Cinquefoil – Potentilla sp
- Columbine Veronica – spicata
- Common Blanketflower – Gaillardia aristata
- Common Primrose – Primula vulgaris
- Coral Bells – Heuchera sanguinea splendens
- Cottage Pinks – Dianthus plumarius
- Cypress Spurge – Euphorbia cyparissias
- Gayfeather – Liatris
- Golden Marguerite – Anthemis tinctoria
- Hollyhock Mallow – Malva alcea fastigiata
- Iceland Poppy – Papaver nudicaule
- Lavender – Lavandula sp
- Lavender Cotton – Santolina Chamaecyparissus
- Meadow Sage – Salvia pratensis
- Michaelmas Daisy – Aster novi-belgii
- Montauk Daisy – Chrysanthemum nipponicum
- Pasque Flower – Anemone pulsatilla
- Perennial Bachelor Button – Centaurea montana
- Purple Coneflower – Echinacea purpurea
- Rose Campion – Lychnis coronaria
- St. John’s Wort – Hypericum perforatum
- Sedum – Sedum
- Shasta Daisy – Chrysanthemum x superbum
- Siberian Iris – Iris sibirica
- Sunflower – Helianthus sp
- Sunray Coreopsis – Coreopsis grandiflora
- Tawny Daylily – Hemerocallis fulva
- Tickseed – Coreopsis grandiflora
- Yarrow – Achillea sp
- Yucca
Shrubs
- Bayberry – Myrica sp.
- Beach Plum – Prunus maritima
- Broom – Cytisus sp.
- Dryland Blueberry – Vaccinium pallidum
- Eastern Ninebark Physocarpus – opulifolius
- Five-leaf Aralia – Acanthopanax sieboldiana
- Flowering Quince – Chaenomeles speciosa
- Fountain Buddleia – Buddleia alternifolia
- Gray Dogwood – Cornus racemosa
- Japanese Barberry – Berberis thunbergii
- Junipers – Juniperus sp.
- Mentor Barberry – Berberis mentorensis
- Nannyberry – Viburnum lentago
- Privet – Ligustrum sp.
- Russian Olive – Elaegnus angustifolia
- Salt Spray Rose – Rosa rugosa
- Siberian Pea Shrub – Caragana arborescens
- Smoketree – Cotinus coggygria
- Sumac – Rhus sp.
- Tamarix – Tamarix ramosissima
Greenscaping
Greenscaping is the creation of a garden that uses less water than traditional landscaping. You can do this by choosing plants that are drought tolerant and by using techniques that use water efficiently. Taking these steps will reduce your outdoor water use by creating a colorful, natural yard or garden that is easier and cheaper to maintain.
Seven Steps to a Water-Saving Garden
- Planning and Design – Consider soil and light conditions, drainage, which existing plants you plan to keep, maintenance level desired, plant and color preferences, and your budget.
- Soil Improvements – Mix compost or peat moss into the soil before planting to help the soil retain water. If your yard is sloped, reduce water run-off with terraces and retaining walls.
- Minimize Lawn Areas – Limit the amount of area devoted to grass. Plant ground covers or add hard surface areas like patios, decks, or walkways. When replanting lawn areas, use drought tolerant grass seed mixes.
- Plant Selection – Choose from among the many types of low water using trees, shrubs, flowers, and ground covers. Many need watering only in the first year after planting.
- Efficient Irrigation – Install drip or trickle irrigation systems for those areas that need watering. These systems use water efficiently and are available from garden centers.
- Effective Use of Mulches – Use mulches like pine needles, shredded bark, or leaves in a layer 3 inches deep. This keeps soil moist, smothers weeds, and prevents erosion.
- Regular Maintenance – Properly timed pruning, fertilizing, pest control, and weeding will preserve your landscape’s beauty and water efficiency.
Maintaining a Healthy Lawn
- Healthy lawns don’t need that much water. Watering too often keeps the grass from establishing deep roots. When you water, deep soak your lawn, allowing the moisture to reach the roots. Healthy roots are more water efficient and drought tolerant.
- Mow your lawn at a minimum 3 inch height. This is the most important step to a healthy lawn. Keeping your grass a bit longer will allow it to develop a larger root system and will also shade out weed seedlings. Keep your mower blades sharpened to reduce damage.
- Water before 8 a.m. or after 8 p.m. After 8 a.m. heat steals moisture from your lawn through evaporation. Watering during the day can actually scald or burn your lawn when hot sunlight hits the water droplets. Watering early equals less water used.
- Leave grass clippings on the grass. Leaving clippings on the lawn has been proven to help your lawn. Nitrogen from the clippings is returned to the soil, nourishing your lawn.
- Reduce the size of your lawn. Include shrubs, trees, and wildflowers in your landscape. They don’t require as much water or upkeep. Planting more trees provides more shade, keeping your lawn greener!
If you think your Water Bill is wrong follow the following steps to have it rectified!
- 1. Calculate your consumption with our rates
- 2. Check your eye on water account for leaks or upticks in consumption.
- 3. Still confused about eye on water? Check out this tutorial video.
- 4. Is your water bill still to high? Do you have an irrigation system or use a lot of outdoor water? You may want to look into the possibility of purchasing a second de-deduct meter.
- 5. If you still think your bill is wrong please call (978) 671 – 1313 Option 4 to speak to somebody about your issue.
I have a water problem – what should I do?
If you are having an issue with low pressure, brown water, or a main break please call the Water Treatment Plant for more information – (978) 671 – 0957. They are staffed 24/7 and will be able to help in an emergency. Also please sign up for CODE Red and we will alert you if water will be shut off to an area.
I have brown water – what should I do?
Brown water is generally a combination of iron and manganese (minerals that are naturally present in water). These minerals become oxidized when they are mixed with chlorine (which is added to the water for disinfection). This can result in discolored laundry and plumbing fixtures. Brown water can also occur when there is any change in the distribution system, such as increased flow, a water main break, or a fire. The Water Division has a rust-reducing product for use in the laundry. This product is available at the Water Treatment Facility located at 270 Treble Cove Road, and also at the Water Billing Office at the Billerica Town Hall located at 365 Boston Road.